Museum of Greek Folk Art (Athens)

In the pretty and touristy neighbourhood of Plaka lies quite a different and interesting museum, although (surprisingly) the few number of visitors seem to testify that it is not very well-known. This allows one to walk around the various rooms in a very quiet and peaceful environment, but at the same time, I could not help but feel sad and worried about this situation. I will be sharing my experience in the Museum of Greek Folk Art in the hope that my words might awaken the curiosity of anyone visiting Athens, leading to (I promise!) a very enriching and also fun experience.
The museum was established in 1918 and transferred from the Tzisdarakis Mosque in Monastiraki Square into 17 Kydathinaion Street in Plaka in 1973. Apart from the fact that none of the rooms are illuminated by natural light and that the exhibitions have not been reorganized in a more visitor-friendly way in many decades, this museum holds a fascinating and extremely diverse collection. Going up until I reached the fourth and final floor, I felt like I was traveling in time and space, throughout many distant regions of 18th to 20th century Greece. This made me come to the happy realization that the country´s culture and traditions are far richer and more diverse than I had imagined. Another interesting aspect of this museum is that objects from other close parts of the world (such as Italy and Turkey) are also exhibited, as to show some of the foreign influences that helped form the cultural identity of Modern Greeks during these centuries.
As soon as you enter (free of charge for European Union students) you will soon be aware of what the ground floor is dedicated to – embroidery, some of which are quite intimidating in size. I was surprised to see a medieval looking piece whose colour and human representations reminded me of the Bayeux Tapestry; although this tendentious view might be related to my slight obsession with everything medieval. Throughout the three other floors one can explore regional costumes, masquerades, silver and gold work, pottery, shadow theatre, folk painting (works of the naïve painter Theophilos Hatzimichail) and much, much more.
Personally, what fascinated me the most was the exhibition about shadow theatre. This type of performing art originated in the East and was later brought to Greece, where it was quickly assimilated. This might be due to the fact that through these peculiar looking puppets, stories related to social issues – such as oppression and uprisings, poverty and heroism – used to be told. Popular and entertaining ways of expressing social feelings and anxieties have always been common in various cultures, and it is interesting to relate their popularity to specific historic periods.
The metal work exhibition was very impressive and some of the pieces were so big that I felt sorry for the person who had to wear them – although quite jealous too, I must confess, for they were made with beautiful and intricate detail. Some of the masquerades were very scary and slightly reminded me of traditional costumes from Trás-os-Montes, a Northern region of Portugal – it is quite remarkable how distant cultures can be so different, yet still hold some similarities.
I will not go into further details about all the other collections, for that would occupy far too much space and time when it is really worthwhile to see for oneself. I will end this little article by saying that I wish every tourist (and also Greeks) would include this museum on their list of destinations and wanders around Athens. There is much, much more to Greece than the white marbled Ancient ruins and the beautiful islands. This specific museum proves my words in a most fascinating way.

Sofia Lovegrove PereiraSofia Lovegrove is currently working as an intern at the Initiative for Heritage Conservancy. She is interested in archaeological research and Public Archaeology. When not working for IHC, Sofia is also a volunteer at the Athenian Agora.

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